Call Keith, (480) 467-8090

ALWAYS make sure your firearm is safe and unloaded.

Never point any weapon, even an "unloaded" one, in an unsafe direction.

When picking up a rifle from any builder, friend, or colleague it's a good idea to run a couple tight cleaning patches through the chamber and bore to ensure no foreign material is in there from use or transport. 

PCR does not suggest doing a shoot/clean/shoot/clean break-in process. We do suggest new barrels be properly cleaned roughly 10 times in the first 150-200 shots, focusing more cleanings earlier in the barrel life. After this, the shooter can usually start shooting 100-300 rounds between cleanings for the rest of the barrel life. What's important is proper cleaning.

Expect new barrels to speed up a bit(~30fps) after the first 200 rounds(10 cleanings).

NEVER use any type of abrasive lapping bullets and avoid coated bullets.

Powerful Copper solvents are usually unnecessary but use carefully if needed. PCR uses Butches Boreshine solvent. 

ALWAYS use a proper bore-guide, graphite cleaning rod, brass or aluminum patch loop and/or jag, and bronze brushes with an aluminum twisted core. Tilt your rifle slightly muzzle down when cleaning. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well for cleaning off Bronze Brushes. We don't use nylon brushes for cleaning our bores. Never spin the bronze brush in the bore (don't twist it in the bore, like by using a drill gun for example.)  Only run the brush lengthwise down the bore, while wet with solvent. Let the brush rotate naturally with the rifling. I do about a dozen brush strokes, with a few patches before and after, keeping it wet with solvent when brushing, repeated several times.

NEVER use any tools containing steel in the barrel. NEVER use "bore-snakes" (or anything you pull through the barrel on a rope or wire).

NEVER use extra strength or heat resistant loctite on a firearm. Use only mild/medium (blue) loctite on properly cleaned parts and be sparing with it. Muzzle brakes should either get a small drop of Rocksett, or copper anti-seize lubricant. Most muzzle devices do not need to be glued (Rocksett) on and should instead rely on proper torque with copper anti-seize. Suppressor threads especially appreciate a tiny bit of copper anti-seize.  Don't screw brakes or suppressors on to dry, bare metal, threads. This can easily cause galling, and if you ever feel resistance when screwing anything together, stop and slowly back it off. Never force threads.

NEVER allow oil or lubricant to get into your chamber. Your bolt action rifle doesn't need oil.

It will appreciate a thing film of grease on the backs of the recoil lugs (on the bolt), and some grease in the cocking cam / bolt to shroud mating area (the firing pin assembly threads, or lugs, depending on what action you have). A light grease like TW25B is good for this. Once this area is properly greased it's good for quite a while.